Japan 2025 - Part 3 - Snow Monkeys

We dropped off our bags at the hotel, grabbed a quick beer, and then jumped on the bus for the Snow Monkey tour.

It took about 50 minutes to get there, with our guide pointing out landmarks along the way. We passed through apple and peach orchards, and rows of vines growing the famous Kyoho grapes — massive, super sweet, and apparently a big deal in Japan.

We arrived at the monkey park entrance and started the 1.6km walk through the forest. It had finally stopped snowing, but it was still cold and icy underfoot. We couldn’t believe how many people were attempting it in completely inappropriate shoes and outfits — we were very glad we’d stuck with ski gear and snow boots.

The path itself was fairly flat, apart from some steeper steps at the start and end, winding through dense forest with a sheer drop running alongside it. Not dangerous, but definitely one to take seriously in icy conditions.

At the entrance, we handed over our tickets and headed into what can only be described as monkey heaven.

There were two main areas to watch them. The first was down by the riverbank, where the monkeys were grooming each other, playing in the trees, and foraging for food — this is also where most of the babies were, which made it even better.

The second area was the hot pool — a man-made onsen for the monkeys, supposedly built to stop them sneaking into the human one further down the path. The adult monkeys lounged in the steaming water looking exactly like humans do in a spa — red-faced, relaxed, and completely unbothered. This was by far the busiest spot, with tourists all trying to get the perfect photo. The monkeys, however, couldn’t have cared less, wandering straight through the crowds and brushing past people like they owned the place.

On the way back, we stopped at the Shibu Jigokudani geyser for a quick photo. It’s a rare geothermal feature that continuously shoots water up to 20 metres into the air — no waiting around required.

Right next to it — and slightly alarmingly close when you’re trying to take photos — is the human onsen. Despite having their own pool, the monkeys still occasionally join in. Tourists happily strip off and climb in, soaking in mineral-rich water (and, inevitably, a bit of monkey presence) while unintentionally featuring in everyone else’s photos. Not quite our thing, but each to their own.

Before heading back to the bus, we stopped at the park café for a beer and the much-hyped apple and custard pie, strongly recommended by our guide. It lived up to expectations.

Our next stop was a small local sake and beer producer, where we sampled a few options and picked up some takeaway beers for the short journey to Shibu Onsen.

We only had about 10 minutes there, so decisions had to be made quickly. Lee went straight for the foot onsen — a quick soak did the trick, and access was free with a small purchase from a nearby shop. Sam followed the guide through the streets, taking in the traditional buildings, small shops, an origami museum, and the many onsens dotted around the town.

If you visit all the onsens (we think there are nine), it’s said to bring good health and fortune. You collect stamps on a towel as you go — essentially a very wholesome version of a bar crawl, ending with you feeling like a slightly overcooked snow monkey.

Back on the bus, that wrapped up the tour, and we headed back to Nozawa Onsen for some well-earned beers and gyoza.