Work To Live

We dropped off our bags at the hotel, grabbed a quick beer, and then jumped on the bus for the Snow Monkey tour. It took about 50 minutes to get there, with our guide pointing out landmarks along the way. We passed through apple and peach orchards, and rows of vines growing the famous Kyoho grapes — massive, super sweet, and apparently a big deal in Japan. We arrived at the monkey park entrance and started the 1.6km walk through the forest. It had finally stopped snowing, but it was still cold and icy underfoot. We couldn’t believe how many people were attempting it in completely inappropriate shoes and outfits — we were very glad we’d stuck with ski gear and snow boots. The path itself was fairly flat, apart from some steeper steps at the start and end, winding through dense forest with a sheer drop running alongside it. Not dangerous, but definitely one to take seriously in icy conditions. At the entrance, we handed over our tickets and headed into what can only be described as m...

Nozawa Onsen is a very different ski resort to Hakuba . It’s centred around a small, traditional village, with most of the bars, restaurants, and shops running along one main street. Everything feels more compact, more local, and a bit more authentic. We stayed at Tokiwaya Ryokan, a traditional Japanese inn — and genuinely one of the best places we’ve ever stayed. Before even stepping inside, we were handed slippers and asked to leave our shoes at the entrance. From that point on, no outdoor shoes were allowed anywhere in the building. Our room was fully traditional, with tatami-matted floors, sliding doors, and a futon laid out on the floor for sleeping. There was a low table with legless chairs, and walking into the room felt like stepping back in time. It even had an old corded telephone, which added to the charm — although everything else was modern, spotless, and incredibly well maintained. The toilet, of course, was a classic high-tech Japanese one, with more features than you...

We flew with British Airways to Tokyo Haneda Airport . The upgrade to premium economy made the long flight a little more bearable. On arrival, we were met by our driver and taken in a minivan on the five-hour journey to Hakuba . We stayed at the Double Black Hotel in the forest area of Wadano. The rooms were on the small side but comfortable. The toilet did every function imaginable, the sink was tiny, and there was a decent amount of storage. Shoes were strictly off — slippers or socks only both in the hotel and in your room. The staff were seasonaires from Australia, Japan, and a couple of Brits — all really friendly, helpful, and full of good advice. They helped with restaurant bookings (definitely recommended unless you’re happy turning up at 8pm and hoping for the best — which we did most nights and somehow got away with), and organised our ski hire pick-up and drop-off. Breakfast was fairly basic — a choice of vegetarian or meat full English, or a small continental selection....